Choosing the right varieties for your vegetable garden sets you up for success. Below are several factors and best practices to guide your selection, drawn from UConn Extension resources.

What to Consider

Days to Harvest / Maturity Time

Different varieties mature at vastly different rates. Some tomato varieties may require as few as 50 days, while others need 90 days or more. When planning, check “days to maturity” on seed packets or plant labels, and make sure the time from planting until harvest fits within Connecticut’s growing season.

Local Climate & Environmental Tolerance

Varieties that thrive in other regions may struggle here because of Connecticut’s climate: temperature swings, humidity, rainfall, or shorter growing seasons. Look for varieties that are known to perform well in New England or with descriptions of tolerance to cool nights, late spring frosts, heat stress, or humidity.

Disease & Pest Resistance

One of the best ways to reduce loss and work is by selecting varieties with built-in resistance or tolerance to common diseases and pests (e.g., downy mildew, leaf spot, berry rots). This is especially important for tomatoes, cucurbits, brassicas, etc. Many seed catalogs or plant labels include resistance codes or notations.

Growth Habit & Space Requirements

How large will your plants get? Will they need trellising or staking? Do they spread (vining) or stay compact (bushy)? If you're growing in raised beds, containers, or have limited space, look for compact or container-friendly varieties. Plan for the mature height and width to allow sufficient spacing.

Type of Planting (Seed vs. Transplant)

Some plants are more convenient or successful when grown from transplants, others from direct seeding. For example, crops with long growing seasons (e.g. tomatoes, eggplants, peppers) often benefit from starting with transplants to get a jump, while many greens, root crops, peas, beans, and squash can be seeded directly.

Flavor, Yield & Other Horticultural Traits

Along with practical traits, gardeners often care about taste, appearance (color, shape), yield, and even texture. If you cook with them, pick varieties you and your household like. Sometimes an older “heirloom” variety may have superior flavor, even if yield is lower or disease resistance is less.

Hybrid vs. Open-Pollinated / Heirlooms

Hybrids are bred to combine desirable traits such as disease resistance, uniformity, shorter maturity, high yield, etc.

Open-pollinated (OP) or heirloom varieties breed “true” from seed (i.e. offspring resemble parent plants), and often provide diversity, flavor, seed-saving opportunities.

Choose based on what’s important to you — reliability and disease resistance (hybrid) vs flavor, seed saving, tradition (OP).

Connecticut Specific Tips

Frost Dates & Season Length: CT’s average first frost in fall (~Sept. 15) and last spring frost (~May 15) are useful benchmarks. Be sure your variety’s days to maturity fit between those dates (or plan for season extension if needed).

Soil Testing / pH Considerations: Some crops are sensitive to soil pH. Before planting, have your soil tested by the UConn Soil and Nutrient Analysis Laboratory. Adjust soil as needed so that it suits your chosen vegetable types.

Extended Season / Over-Wintering Varieties: If you wish to extend your harvest into colder months, select cold-tolerant or “keeper” varieties (e.g. certain carrots, leeks, winter squash) that retain quality in lower temperatures. Proper selection of variety plays a large role in how well plants perform during late fall or early spring.

Starting seeds indoors is a great way to get a jump on the growing season especially in areas such as Connecticut where the soil is warm enough for growth for only 4-5 months. Seedlings that have a 4-6 week headstart indoors can extend that period. Check packets for days to harvest to determine when seeds will need to be started indoors. Starting plants from seed also enables the home gardener to try new varieties and access a greater scope of plants than may be available in local garden center. Purchase seed packets that contain the amount of seeds that will be used in one season. Larger packets may be a bargain but will go to waste if the contents exceed the requirements. Consider splitting a packet of seeds with a friend if you would like to try some different varieties. 

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Mistakes are a great learning tool, but they also can dampen any enthusiasm for a new project. When early mistakes compound problems further down the road, they can turn someone away from a pastime that offers great satisfaction, healthy activities and a renewed appreciation of the natural world around us.

So, if you are just starting on the gardening odyssey, let’s look at how to avoid a few common mistakes. Avoiding these trouble spots will make gardening easier, much more productive – and fun!

There are three main components to consider when starting out: sun, soil and water. In simpler terms, location, location, location. If you provide your garden the right combination of these three items, you sidestep many problems that can occur as the growing season progresses. These concepts apply to both vegetable and ornamental gardening, and to any specific type of plant you want to grow.

Let’s start with sun. Different plants have different light needs. Plants are categorized as sun, part sun/part shade and shade – but what do those labels mean? Here’s the breakdown. Full sun means at least six to eight hours of full sunlight a day and you start calculating that after 10 AM. Early morning sunlight isn’t considered strong enough to be included in your calculations.

Part sun/part shade is four to six hours of sun daily and anything less than four is considered shady. Make these calculations after the trees have leafed out in the spring; the sunlight in your yard shifts from winter to summer.

Your soil is the foundation of your garden, both literally and figuratively. It provides support, nutrients and water to your plants. Just like humans, different types of plants have different preferences in nutrition and water. Find out what you can provide and choose plants that will thrive in those conditions. First and foremost, if the site is new to you, or it’s been at least five years since the last one, get a soil test. Find out what you do – and don’t – need to add to your soil. Soil tests are available from the UConn soil lab at https://soiltesting.cahnr.uconn.edu/sampling/

You can amend your soil with additional nutrients and elements, but it’s difficult to significantly change water-holding capacity. The test will help you determine how well your soil holds or drains water, allowing you to choose plants that are happiest in those conditions. Observation will also tell you a lot: how quickly does an area drain after a rainstorm? Is it wet is spring, but dry in the summer? Is it always damp?

A related issue is access to water. While an established plant in the right location may not need any supplemental water, both vegetable gardens and newly planted ornamentals will. Is it easy to get water to this area? Do you need to develop a water storage system, such as rain or water barrels? Or is another location really a better overall choice?

Once you know the characteristics of your space, you can then choose plants that will do well in that location without a great deal of extra work. The old phrase ‘Right Plant, Right Place’ is a valid one. Don’t try to significantly alter the location for a favorite plant that really isn’t right for the spot. It will only lead to frustration and poor results. Instead, find plants that like your location and choose from those. Let your gardening provide a positive experience!

For answers to your gardening questions, go to https://mastergardener.uconn.edu/ask-us-a-question/. We’ll be happy to help!

Article by Sarah Bailey, UConn Extension State Master Gardener Coordinator

How To Weed Your Garden: How Often, What to Weed, Tips or Best Management Practices

Any undesirable plant in your garden can be labeled a weed. The vegetables or flowers you want to grow will be robbed of nutrients, moisture, light, and space if weeds are not managed. Weeds seem to always outpace the desired plants in growth. They can also harbor insects and diseases.

To be fair, it needs to be noted that some “weeds” in our gardens have a positive side in other circumstances, such as when not surrounding our tomato plant. Many weeds play a healing role in restoring worn-out soil or prevent erosion. Many also provide nectar and shelter for beneficial insects, and can be a food source for animals.

Common garden weeds in our area include annual bluegrass, crabgrass, henbit, creeping Charlie (also known as ground ivy), nutsedge, prickly lettuce, broadleaf plantain and, of course, the dandelion! The best way to know if a self-invited plant on your territory is a potential friend or foe is to get to know your weeds. We can’t eradicate the weeds but we can learn about the ways to manage them.

For weed control it really all comes down to well-timed physical measures. Preparing the ground properly for planting and doing modest clean up often results in a good-looking and productive result.

The simple rule to live by is to avoid procrastinating by waiting for weeds to mature and set seed. Whether annuals, perennials, or biennials, weeds are famous for their rapid seeding and spreading ability.

Hand pull in small enclosed garden spaces. Loosen the soil around the weed with a hand fork so you can remove it with its root. Be careful not to pull flowers or vegetables if weeds are too close to them. Practice close planting when possible to suppress weeds.
Hoeing is the most useful and easiest method to remove the plants you don’t want. Skim the soil surface, don’t dig in too deep to avoid hurting the roots of your plants, and avoid bringing up more seeds to the surface. Hoe on a warm, dry day so the weeds wilt and die quickly after hoeing.

Remove stems and leaves from the garden beds as they may root. Do not compost any weeds that
have set seeds!

Mulching is an effective deterrent to weed growth. When weeds do come up they are usually lanky and can be easily hand pulled. Hay, straw, wood chips, and compost are all natural mulches that work well to smother weeds, and are a good buffer to protect the soil from evaporation and erosion. For large flower areas or vegetable beds, landscape fabric or plastic roll-out weed barriers can be installed, with or without a covering of mulch.

Also, consider where the weeds are, and their amount. If they are in the lawn and there are only a few of them, hand weeding will be more efficient. If the weeds have overtaken an entire bed, hoeing or digging them out may be the best action to take.

Most garden spaces can be managed with physical and cultural controls. If you do chose to use an herbicide, make sure the product is right for your situation – both for the weed in question and the location. Follow the instructions for correct timing and application rates and wear the appropriate personal protective gear.

If you have further questions, you can contact the UConn Extension Master Gardeners at:
https://mastergardener.uconn.edu/ask-us-a-question/

Article by Tatiana Ponder, 2020 UConn Extension Master Gardener Intern

There’s a growing interest in using raised beds in vegetable gardens, and if that’s your interest, read on. It’s always a good idea to plan a project before jumping in and consider the many variables. Let’s explore some of these.

Why you’re considering raised beds. Many people are interested in raised beds as a way to eliminate as much bending and stooping over in the garden as possible; the higher the beds, the less bending required as you tend your plants. This, in turn, will impact the type of material your beds are made of and the amount of soil your beds will have in them. If you’re interested in portable raised beds (perhaps to be able to move your beds during the day to get the maximum amount of sunlight), that will limit the size each bed will be and what they’re made from.

Space needs and sizes of beds. If you’re a patio-gardener, and have limited space, your beds will need to be smaller than if you set beds within a larger garden area. What you want to grow can also determine the size of your beds. For example, herb gardens fit nicely in smaller beds, while tomatoes, root vegetables, and many other crops need beds that are deeper and larger. If you want to use raised beds with walls, a bed that is wider than four feet will be more difficult to tend; a length of more than eight feet will require more movement to get around the bed itself. The layout of raised beds that are simply mounded soil hills, without structured walls, can much more easily be changed than structured beds with walls.

Materials for raised beds. Raised bed kits are readily available, especially online, and made from a variety of materials, including wood and plastic. Will you buy raised bed kits, which can be expensive, or create your own? If you create your own raised beds, will they be very simply made from highly-mounded soil in your garden, or will they have a solid, box-like structure? If they’re structured, what will they be made from…. wood, concrete block, brick, or plastic? Some materials are more readily available than others, some will last longer outside than others, some are more decorative and easier to disassemble and move, and prices will vary, depending on what you choose.

Irrigation needs of plants in raised beds. Soil in raised beds generally dries out more quickly, since air circulation around the perimeter of the bed contributes to drying, so your garden may need to be watered more frequently. Whether you water by hand, sprinkler, or soaker hoses, it’s important to check the amount of moisture in the soil when setting a watering schedule. As with a ground-level garden, mulching will help retain soil moisture. If you decide to use soaker hoses, it’s helpful to draw a layout of your garden and how the hoses will be laid out to assure that you can water each bed when necessary, especially if some plants need more water than others. Hose layout is also important to plan so that you don’t end up with raised hoses draping from one bed to another, making it more difficult to move among the beds.

Overall, gardening in raised beds can be very rewarding, and much easier if you take the time to plan before you build. If you’re unsure if using raised beds is the right choice for you, start with one or two small raised beds, learn as you go along, and determine what best meets your gardening needs for the future. If you have further questions, you can contact the UConn Extension Master Gardeners at https://mastergardener.uconn.edu/ask-us-a-question/

Article by Linette Branham, 2019 UConn Extension Master Gardener

Healthy, fertile soil is the foundation for a productive vegetable garden. A soil test helps you understand exactly what your soil does and doesn’t provide — so you can make informed decisions about amendments, fertilizers, and other soil management practices. UConn’s Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory offers comprehensive soil testing for lawns, gardens, agricultural crops, and more.

Here are key reasons soil testing matters:

Accurate assessment of soil nutrients and pH

A test will tell you levels of major nutrients (like phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium), micronutrients, and soil pH. These parameters affect whether plants can take up nutrients effectively.

Tailored fertilizer & amendment recommendations

Rather than guessing or applying fertilizer blindly, soil test results include recommendations for how much fertilizer or limestone (for pH adjustment) to use. This saves money, protects plants, and reduces environmental harm (such as nutrient runoff).

Identifying soil problems early

Testing can uncover deficiencies, excesses, or imbalances (nutrients too high or too low), as well as issues like low pH (acidic soil) or high pH (alkaline soil) that affect plant health. It also includes lead screening in standard nutrient analyses in Connecticut — important for food safety.

Environmental & cost-benefit advantages

Overapplication of nutrients (especially nitrogen and phosphorus) can harm water quality. Adjusting soil based on test results helps avoid waste and environmental impact.

Timing and frequency

It’s ideal to test soil when the ground is not frozen. Fall is often the best time so you can apply amendments and allow them to adjust over winter. For most gardens, testing every 3-5 years is sufficient, unless you make major changes (heavy amendments, large pH shifts, etc.).

How to Get Started

If you’re ready to have your soil tested, UConn’s Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory provides detailed instructions on how to collect representative samples, submit them, and interpret the results. Visit soiltesting.cahnr.uconn.edu for information on test types, fees, sample collection, and interpreting your report.

Even the most experienced gardeners run into challenges — from insects and diseases to nutrient deficiencies and environmental stress. The key to protecting your plants is catching problems early, before they spread or become severe. UConn Extension has two excellent resources for home gardeners:

• UConn Master Gardener Program – Trained volunteers who can answer your questions, help identify plant problems, and share research-based solutions tailored to Connecticut gardens.
• UConn Home & Garden Education Center (HGEC) – Staffed by horticulturists who provide diagnostic services, science-based recommendations, and fact sheets to guide your next steps.

Reaching out at the first sign of trouble can save your plants, reduce the need for pesticides, and prevent issues from spreading through your garden. If something doesn’t look right — spots on leaves, wilting, unusual insects, poor growth — don’t wait. Contact the Home & Garden Education Center or your local UConn Master Gardener office for timely support.

Growing your own food is highly rewarding — but safe food handling from garden to table is essential to protect health. UConn Extension’s Food Safety Program offers guidance for home gardeners to reduce the risk of foodborne illness.

Key Principles & Practices

Here are important food safety practices for home gardeners to follow. These help keep your produce safe and delicious:

Prepare the Garden Wisely

Locate gardens away from manure piles, septic systems, pet areas, or places where floodwater could reach them. Use compost safely: make sure compost reaches at least 130°F to kill many pathogens. Avoid including pet waste, meat scraps, or dairy material in your compost.

Maintain Clean, Safe Growing Conditions

Use safe water sources: if using well water, surface water (ponds, rivers), or rainwater, test for contaminants. Municipal water supplies are generally safe. Keep animals and pets out of the garden, especially during harvest. This helps reduce contamination from fecal matter or wildlife.

Harvest with Care

Use clean containers and food-grade tools. Don’t use containers that have held chemicals or non-food materials. Wash hands and tools before harvest. Avoid touching produce with hands or gloves that have been handling compost or soil without cleaning. Brush or shake off excess soil outdoors before bringing produce inside.

Storing Fresh Produce

Some produce is best stored unwashed (e.g. tomatoes) until just before eating; wash fruits and vegetables thoroughly under running clean water if you must wash before storing. Dry produce before storage. Store perishable fruit/vegetables that require refrigeration at or below 40°F. Items that do well at room temperature (onions, potatoes, tomatoes, etc.) should be kept in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area, separate from household chemicals.

Prep & Serve Safely

Wash hands before handling produce. Use clean cutting boards, knives, utensils. Prevent cross-contamination (e.g. don’t use a knife that was used on raw meat without washing it first). Keep leftover produce (cut, sliced, cooked) in clean, airtight containers, and refrigerate promptly.

Preservation Methods: Know Your Risks

If preserving your own produce (canning, pickling, fermenting), follow tested, science-based recipes and methods. Some traditional or “family” recipes may not be safe if they don’t meet current standards.

Why Food Safety Matters

Fresh fruits and vegetables are often eaten raw or lightly cooked, which means any pathogens present (bacteria, viruses, parasites) are not removed by heat. Early detection and safe practices reduce your risk. Contamination can come from many sources: soil, water, compost, tools, animals, even your hands. A small oversight can lead to illness. Safe practices also help reduce waste — spoiled or contaminated produce is often thrown out. Good storage and washing extend shelf life and preserve quality. For more detailed guidance, fact sheets, and step-by-step instructions, see UConn Extension’s Grow Safe Food in Your Garden program: foodsafety.uconn.edu

Since earliest times, people have needed and enjoyed plants. Where the climate was unfavorable, or the soil or water was scarce, containers made it possible to satisfy that desire. Container gardening is ideal when space is limited. It is a technique which permits plant materials to be moved around easily, to be changed or renewed as desired and to be enjoyed at close range. Plantings can be as simple or as elaborate as space, inclination, taste and funds permit.

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Brassica crops—including cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts—are vulnerable to a wide range of pests and diseases that can significantly impact plant health and yield. This guide provides a comprehensive overview of common issues affecting brassicas in the Northeast, helping growers and gardeners recognize early signs of trouble.

Key pests and diseases include:

• Black Rot – V-shaped yellow lesions and blackened leaf veins.
• Alternaria Leaf Spot – Ringed spots on leaves and heads; fuzzy growth on foliage.
• Club Root – Swollen roots, wilting during heat, and stunted growth.
• Black Leg – Ash-gray leaf lesions and black stem streaks.
• Downy Mildew – Yellow-green water-soaked spots and brown head discoloration.
• Rhizoctonia & Sclerotinia – Head rot with water-soaked, brown or black leaves; white cottony growth in some cases.
• Powdery Mildew – White fungal patches on leaves.
• Cabbage Maggot – Root-feeding larvae that stunt or kill plants.
• Flea Beetles – Tiny beetles that pit leaves and damage seedlings.
• Cutworms, Cabbageworms, Loopers, and Moths – Caterpillars that chew holes in leaves and bore into heads.
• Aphids, Thrips, and Whiteflies – Sap-sucking insects that distort growth and leave residues.
• Harlequin Bugs and Blister Beetles – Leaf-feeding insects that also affect pollinators.
• European Corn Borer – Bores into stems and heads.
• Slugs and Turkeys – Physical damage from feeding and disturbance.

For more detailed pest identification and management strategies, we encourage you to contact the UConn Home & Garden Education Center or your local UConn Extension Master Gardener office. They can provide region-specific advice and support for your brassica crops.

Tomatoes are susceptible to a wide range of pests and diseases that can affect plant health, fruit quality, and overall yield. This guide highlights common issues seen in tomato crops across the Northeast, helping growers and gardeners recognize symptoms early and take appropriate action.

Key pests and problems include:

Diseases and Disorders

• Early Blight – Dark leaf spots with rings and yellow halos; defoliation from the bottom up.
• Late Blight – Large dark lesions on leaves, stems, and fruit; may have white fungal growth.
• Septoria Leaf Spot – Small dark spots with gray centers; causes defoliation.
• Anthracnose Ripe Rot – Sunken, water-soaked fruit lesions with salmon-colored spores.
• Leaf Mold & Powdery Mildew – Fuzzy or moldy growth on leaves; leads to leaf death.
• Grey Mold & Ghost Spot – Fuzzy gray mold on stems or fruit; white rings on fruit.
• Fusarium & Verticillium Wilts – Stem discoloration, wilting, and plant death.
• Phytophthora, Pythium, Southern Blight, and Sclerotinia – Stem girdling, fruit rot, and fungal growth.
• Bacterial Diseases – Canker, speck, and spot cause leaf and fruit damage.
• Viruses – Mosaic and spotted wilt viruses distort leaves and discolor fruit.
• Physiological Disorders – Blossom end rot, phosphorus deficiency, rain check, growth cracks, catfacing, greywall, gold fleck, and zippering affect fruit appearance and quality.

Insect and Mite Pests

• Flea Beetles & Aphids – Leaf pitting and sticky residue.
• Hornworms, Fruitworms, Loopers, Cutworms, and Borers – Caterpillars that defoliate plants and bore into fruit.
• Spider Mites & Broad Mites – Tiny pests that cause stippling, russeting, and leaf distortion.
• Beetles – Colorado potato, three-lined potato, tortoise beetles chew leaves and scar fruit.
• Stink Bugs & Tarnished Plant Bugs – Suck plant juices, causing sunken spots and bruising.
• Slugs – Surface feeding and holes in fruit.

For help identifying and managing tomato pests, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education Center or your local UConn Extension Master Gardener office. They can provide region-specific advice and support.

The reasons for providing artificial light for your indoor plants can vary greatly depending on what you’d like to grow. Sometimes a light source is provided temporarily to help a plant get through the winter or to give seedlings a head start before spring plantings. Other times artificial light is added to create a permanent growing environment for ornamental houseplants or indoor crops such as microgreens and hydroponically grown vegetables. Lighting technology has come a long way in the past few years, enabling hobbyists and professionals to get even more out of their light source than ever before, often at an affordable price and reasonable rate of energy consumption. Listed below are the most common types of light used for indoor plantings along with some considerations for each type. Choosing grow lights is not a one size fits all scenario and selecting the right one can be a daunting task; use the information below to help make a more informed decision before making the investment.

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